Shikotsuko Onsen: Himemasu, the Underwater Boat and the Red Bridge at Lake Shikotsu

By Chaporo, a Sapporo local Published
Shikotsuko Onsen: Himemasu, the Underwater Boat and the Red Bridge at Lake Shikotsu

Quick answers

  • Eat himemasu, the lake's landlocked salmon, at Kotobuki
  • Underwater sightseeing boat: about 30 minutes, 2,000 yen for adults, mid-April to early November
  • The red Yamasen Railway Bridge is the classic photo
  • About an hour from Sapporo and 40 minutes from New Chitose Airport; parking 500 yen a day

Shikotsuko Onsen is the small hot spring village on the east shore of Lake Shikotsu, the northernmost lake in Japan that never freezes. It is the place to eat himemasu, the lake's own landlocked salmon, to look into one of the clearest lakes in Japan from an underwater sightseeing boat, and to photograph the red railway bridge. It is about an hour by car from Sapporo and 40 minutes from New Chitose Airport.

Himemasu lunch at Kotobuki

Himemasu, also called chippu in Hokkaido after the Ainu word, is a kind of salmon that spends its whole life in the lake instead of going out to sea. It tastes like salmon but lighter, and it is good both raw and grilled. The restaurant Kotobuki in the village is a good place to try it.

The himemasu set at Kotobuki: grilled himemasu, himemasu sushi and side dishes

The himemasu set is six dishes, including a whole grilled himemasu, himemasu sushi and a clear soup, so you can try the fish several ways at once.

Chilled soba with himemasu tempura at Kotobuki

The chippu ten-zaru is chilled soba with himemasu tempura; the mild fish is perfect as tempura.

The underwater sightseeing boat

Lake Shikotsu with a mountain across the water and a boat out on the lake

Lake Shikotsu is one of the clearest lakes in Japan, and the underwater sightseeing boat lets you see below the surface. You go down a flight of stairs from the deck into a cabin with windows about two meters under the water.

Columns of rock on the lake bed seen through the window of the underwater boat

The lake bed near the shore is made of columnar jointing, blocky columns of volcanic rock, a typical sight in a caldera lake, and from the cabin you look straight down on them.

Columnar rock along the shore of Lake Shikotsu, seen from the boat
A school of fish under the hull, seen from the underwater boat's windows

The cruise takes about 30 minutes along the east side of the lake and costs 2,000 yen for adults and 1,000 yen for elementary school children. Boats leave about every 30 minutes from 9:00; the last one is between 15:30 and 17:00 depending on the season. The boats run from mid to late April until November 3. Check the official site for the day's times.

The red Yamasen Railway Bridge

The red iron Yamasen Railway Bridge over the river at Lake Shikotsu

The bright red iron bridge where the Chitose River flows out of the lake is the shot everyone lines up for. It was once a railway bridge; after its working life it was given to Chitose city and is now a symbol of Lake Shikotsu.

How to get to Shikotsuko Onsen

From central Sapporo: about an hour south on Route 453 to the north shore of the lake, then east along the shore to the village.

From New Chitose Airport: about 40 minutes west on Prefectural Road 16 (follow the signs for Shikotsu-ko).

There is a paid car park, 500 yen a day.

Accessibility

The car park is above the lake, and the walk down to the boat pier takes about five minutes. There are slopes as well as steps, so you should be able to get a wheelchair down to the pier; as far as I remember there are no big steps, but the slope is fairly steep, so it helps to have someone with you. On the underwater boat, you reach the cabin by a narrow, steep staircase from the deck; if you use a wheelchair, ask Lake Shikotsu Sightseeing Boat in advance how much the staff can help. Kotobuki is a two- to three-minute walk from the car park, with ramps as well as steps.

Near Shikotsuko Onsen

Around the lake there is more to see: Marukoma Onsen, an inn on the lake shore with baths so close to the water you can see the lake bed; Poropinai on the north shore, with a lakeside restaurant and a viewpoint over the whole lake; and Lake Okotanpe, a small hidden lake in the hills to the north-west whose color changes from emerald to cobalt with the light. My Lake Shikotsu guide puts them together in a day from Sapporo.

Lake Shikotsu Day Trip from Sapporo by Car: A Local's RouteA local's day trip to Lake Shikotsu by car: the Okotanpe viewpoint, a lakeside bath at Marukoma Onsen, lake trout for lunch and the underwater boat, plus the ice festival and winter tips.

FAQ about Shikotsuko Onsen

Q1. How much is the Lake Shikotsu underwater boat?

2,000 yen for adults and 1,000 yen for elementary school children, for about 30 minutes. It runs from mid-April to early November.

Q2. What is himemasu?

A landlocked salmon that lives its whole life in Lake Shikotsu, also called chippu. It tastes like a lighter salmon.

Q3. How far is Lake Shikotsu from New Chitose Airport?

About 40 minutes by car, which makes it an easy first or last stop on a trip.

Q4. Is there parking at Shikotsuko Onsen?

Yes, a paid car park at 500 yen a day.